Holeman & Finch is the gastropub creation of superchef Linton Hopkins, who also created Restaurant Eugene next door. (And who, by the way is Eugene?) It's on Peachtree (where else?) in the lower Buckhead restaurant corridor. This place has been on my agenda for awhile; last night the place was thick with 30-somethings having a good time.
The menu consists mostly of small plates, which suited me fine because I wanted just a little pickup. My first choice was a cheese plate which was served with a dollop of apple sauce/butter and a squiggle of honey. Two out of three cheeses really caught my fancy, which is a pretty good ratio for blind choices. I particularly liked the blue cheese with a little bit of honey and apple.
I finished up with the apple pie. No, it isn't a warmed-over Hostess pie. You also can't see the ice cream underneath. It was exquisite. First, the pie has a very clear note of fried---not greasy but something more like lard, an ingredient near and dear to all Southerners. The ice cream was also very rich with a clear, refreshing taste of vanilla.
At some point I'll make it back here for their signature dish, the special burger. It is served in limited quantities as a late night experience, so I will have to plan my evening around it. But the burger is supposed to be worth it.
Restaurant Eugene, on Peachtree in south Buckhead, is one of the best restaurants in the country. Chef Linton Hopkins has been nominated for a James Beard Award and his Southern-inspired cuisine has received wide attention. A visit from my old friend Mark Horowitz seemed like the perfect occasion to try it---Mark must get tired of all that California cuisine in Palo Alto.
The menu has an interesting organization. Each section---fish, vegetables, meat, has several tasting-size items and a few main course-sized items. It's very easy to mix and match.
I started with a salad, then had shrimp with rice cheese grits. The rice grits is pretty much what it sounds like---rice prepared as grits (presumably including the lye treatment). They are very mild, making them an excellent complement to the shrimp.
This is the black pork belly, with the black coming from sorghum. It wasn't quite as black in appearance as I had been led to believe by the name, but that's OK. The texture of the pork belly was wonderful. The exterior was browned just enough, the inside was extremely tender, and the mouthfuls of fat were as tender as anything I've had (and I've had Kobe beef in Kobe).
For dessert, I had a sweet potato creme brulee. It was very well executed with just the right amount of sweetness.
The restaurant was jam-packed by the time we left. That's a pretty impressive feat in this recession and speaks to the quality of the food. The service was also excellent; my only qualm was that it took quite some time to bring the dessert.