Category: Worth a detour
Verdict: Excellent pizza as part of a full Italian-American menu

I've heard about Alpine Bakery for awhile and finally made it.  Alpine Bakery is, you must admit, not the most obvious name for a white-linen Italian restaurant, but there you have it.  They also have an extensive bakery case with a large variety of cakes.


The restaurant has a full menu of Italian-American dishes but I went for the pizza.  I was slightly skeptical at first when my waitress explained that they make margherita pizzas in both white and red.  (For all you food geeks out there, you can read about the origin of the pizza margherita on Wikipedia's History of Pizza page.)  But it was an excellent family style pizza, the best I've had in quite awhile.  The crust was the right combination of crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside.  The cheese was outstanding.  I had a small cup of sauce on the side, which helped me isolate its flavor.  The sauce had the right balance of acidity and just a little sweetness.

The atmosphere is fancy but still warm and accessible.  The service was very attentive and friendly.

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Dominick's is in old downtown Lawrenceville, which has been very nicely restored. The restaurant is in a restored building with a decor that is modern but fits well with the original intent of the building.

The menu is fairly classic Italian-American. Dominick's is clearly trying to project the style of a family restaurant you might find in New York. By the standards of New York, Dominick's is OK. By Atlanta standards, it is very good. I had the veal saltimbocca; I scraped the plate clean. The tomato sauce on the pasta had a strong note of oregano, which was nice. I also had some spinach cooked with garlic. (All this was a half order, by the way, which was plenty for me.) I noticed that they had regular broccoli, not broccoli rabe, as you would find in an Italian restaurant in the Northeast. They also didn't give me any choice in pasta---it's spaghetti for everyone. For dessert, I had a cannoli, which was just stuffed as it should be and very good. The service was attentive but not overbearing, even on a busy night. Overall verdict---satisfying.

Jun 272010

Buca al Beppo is a national chain; my friends and I tried the Alpharetta instantiation. It is a simulation of a family-run Italian-American restaurant. I don't use the term simulation ironically---as he led me to our table, the waiter explained that the ceilings were low to simulate a basement location. They also take up the practice of filling the walls with pictures.

I don't have any serious complaints but this is one of those experiences that grates on me a little. Having been to a great many actual family Italian restaurants, I just can't get excited about a chain version. (I'd say the same for Maggiano's.) The food was fine but not spectacular. All the portions are designed to serve at least two people. They claim that this is to simulate a family-style atmosphere but I have never been to a family-run restaurant that served everything in multi-person portions. The waiter kept cajoling us to order more and take some home---the underlying agenda of large portions.

Jan 192010


Leslie, Carol, and I converged on Ippolito's in Norcross, one of several locations. The atmosphere is new and slightly sports bar, but the food is definitely mainstream Italian-American. You won't hear the Chairman of the Board playing in the background but you will have some very good food.

I tried the calzone and my friends tried various pastas; we also had calamari to start. I was most impressed by the sauces---my calzone, the calamari, and our bread all had different tomato sauces and each was excellent. They understand the difference between a pizza sauce and a marinara. The calamari was very good; our waiter bragged that the crust was like fried chicken crust, which was true. I was also impressed by the house Italian dressing on my salad, which was a light oil and vinegar with all the appropriate spices.


Research takes me to Penn State, where my colleague and friend Mary Jane Irwin took me to her favorite local pizza place, Faccia Luna. Penn State is in a very rural part of the state and is generally not known for its ethnic food. But it does get enough students and parents from Philadelphia and Pittsburg that the locals do understand Italian-American food.

As you can see, it has a wood-fired oven. They also have access to excellent local cheese supplies.

We ordered a quattro stagione, which was excellent. The crust had the right level of chewiness, better than most of the good pizza places in Atlanta. The cheese was excellent and added a good salty note to the pizza.

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