I decided that this is my week to try baking a cheesecake.  It's one of those things that I never ate as a kid and learned to love in the Tri-State Area.  (Junior's in Brooklyn serves a truly amazing cheesecake.)  But there's always a first time for everything, including baking cheesecake.
The name "cheesecake" pretty well describes what's in it: a whole bunch of cheese, some egg to bind it together, and a surprisingly small amount of sugar.  All too many cheesecakes use gelatin as a filler.  If you see even a hint of gelatin in your cheesecake, flee from it as quickly as you can.  The difference in taste and texture between a real cheesecake and a faux cheesecake is unmistakable.
I started with Giada De Laurentis's cheesecake recipe on the Food Network site, but ended up making some changes.  Her recipe called for 4 1/2" springform pans, but I could only find an 8 1/2" springform.  Sizing up a baking recipe is always tricky. Doing it for a type of dish that you've never made before is very problematic (i.e., dumb).  But I tried it anyway.  Her recipe also called for basil in the cheesecake and I chickened out on that one.
Here's how I ended up doing it.  I combined four 8 oz boxes of cream cheese, 16 oz of ricotta cheese, two 5 oz containers of goat's milk cheese, three or four tablespoons of sugar, two eggs, and four additional egg whites.  I combined all of them in the food processor; I suspect the Kitchenaid mixer would have also worked well, but a smaller mixer might not have had enough power.  The mixture started out very stiff and I was very skeptical about how well it would combine.  But the eggs managed to soften the  mixture quite a bit and the result was soft and easy to spread.  I put the mixture into a buttered 8 1/2" springform pan (I should have put parchment in the bottom---my cake-making technique deserted me briefly) and used a knife to even out the top.  I put the springform pan into a larger pan with water half way up the springform and put into a 350 degree oven.  After 50 minutes it didn't look anywhere close to being done, so I gave it another 20 minutes.  The result of the 70 minutes total is in the photo; the larger pan is the water bath.  Perhaps a slighly shorter cooking time would have been ideal, but I don't think the cake suffered too much.  I turned off the oven and let the cake and water bath cool with the oven for an hour.  I then wrapped it in plastic wrap, pan and all, and put it in the refrigerator overnight.  The next morning, I took the springform edge off and wrapped the entire cake in plastic. 
I learned the hard way that you don't try a cheesecake warm, unlike an apple pie.  I put a small amount of batter in a small bowl and tested it while it was still warm.  The result was a little strong and harsh.  I was afraid that I would only be able to use the cake as a doorstop.  But I tried the rest the next morning and it was pretty good.  So I have high hopes for the cake's debut on Saturday.
Aug 092010


Jennifer, Yu and I made chicken mole last night. It was a complex and fascinating process. Gringo that I am, I didn't know that mole means "ground up things," not just a chocolate savory sauce. Guacamole, for example, is a mole. I looked at three different recipes, all with variations, and we settled on one from the Food Network. We used an entire page of ingredients, many in very small quantities: two pecan halves, three peppercorns. The recipe called for five types of chiles. I wandered aimlessly around Buford Farmers' Market until I stumbled across the Mexican spices aisle, which had most of the chiles I needed. I guessed some substitution for the rest. The entire process took four hours of constant work. We didn't use a completely authentic process---for example, the traditional folk ways use a Waring blender to smooth out the sauce while we used an Oster. The result was an extremely complex taste. You could taste it for a minute or two and feel the flavors change. Some heat came at the end but there were so many other flavors as well. The recipe called for several of the seeds to be fried. We probably pushed the edge frying. The sauce had a very nutty taste and I think it would have been a little more subtle if the seeds had been cooked a little less thoroughly. As an experiment, we tried frying the chicken on the theory that the crunchy outside would provide a good texture complement, but that didn't work so well. Overall, it was one of those cooking experiences that I'll remember for a long time. I won't do this every week but I'm glad I tried it.

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